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Solar update: Adding another kilowatt
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Sold an extra pickup truck we had, and put the money into another 6 solar panels ( 6 x 175w = 1050 watts )...went just about straight across. Just met the freight truck down at the crossroads.
That will bring our system up to a shade over 3kw ( 18 panels ) and max out what I can put on the two charge controllers.....they will handle 1600 watts each @24v. First billing period we produced 183kw/hrs in 3 VERY rainy crappy sunless weeks of Dec-Jan. Next billing period, (4wks) upped that to 279. Both periods, my trackers were mostly inoperative due to some technical problems with the circuit boards, had to send them back for repairs. Hope to have them back in operation this coming month. With the increased panel amounts, and tracking, I hope to bust 500kw/hrs come spring. |
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How many watts do you get during an overcast day? And does the tracker really make a big difference when the sun is occulted? |
Re: Solar update: Adding another kilowatt
Maybe I better order some of those panels myself and set them on the shelf till I figure it out. Is that the best panel $ for $ ? I am assuming you did all my research for me. Since I have no clue on the matter what suggestions are you willing to make. That is besides get off my ass and figure it out on my own. Dhoo... :banghead:
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If you're just getting started, you can bang your head a lot more....I did. First off, you need to decide whether you're gonna go grid tie ONLY, grid tie with battery backup ( for grid down ), or totally off grid. That is going to determine a lot of which stuff you buy, and how much things cost. For example, the panel I'm using.... Solar World...use to be Shell Oil Co....is a 175w is for a 24v systems that have batteries. You can use them on grid tie only of course ( you can use about ANY panel on grid tie only ), but the voltage they put out ( about 35-36v ) is ideal for the charge controller to step down a little and go in the batteries if it needs too. Cheapest I could find them currently was FRN 745/panel. That works out to 4.26/watt. Solarworld Panels from "Mr. Solar" BUT if you were going grid tie ONLY, the Kyocera KD205GX-LP, 205 Watt panel is cheaper at 3.89/watt, but doesn't mesh well with battery systems because each panel puts out 26v....shade too little for 24v charging, and too much for 12v ( those usually run in the 16-17v range )....but since a grid tie system doesn't use batteries, it doesn't matter. Usually what they do on those deals is buy a high voltage inverter, where they will take several hundred DC volts in, and then wire the panels in series so you gang up the voltage times the number of panels....they'll hook 4 to 8 of them together. The advantage of this is you can run smaller wire ( DC is terrible about voltage loss and you have to run huge wires compared to AC ) by upping the voltage. Grid tie systems are a lot cheaper, since there are no batteries, charge controllers, the inverters are cheaper ( since they aren't dual purpose )....they will run 1/3rd less. BUT they aren't worth much if the grid goes down.......and thinking like we think, you probably won't want to even look at them. Northern AZ Wind/Sun My advice is just jump in. I bought my first panels about two years ago, and then bought pcs here and there along the way....but you'd be AMAZED at the stuff you need and didn't think of until you get to that point in the install. Some of it you 'could' work around in a pinch, but some you can't. Fire away with questions if I can help. andy |
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The tracker doesn't make much difference on overcast days. Where it pays for itself is on sunny days....keeping the panels as close to perpendicular as possible. There, it makes 30% difference in watts. I've checked it by cutting one array out, and letting the other track. Each array I can monitor separate as to production since they are on different charge controllers.....and they tell you exactly what is coming in. |
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i just got 2 inverter last week , they are 1500 watts inverter now i need to find out how many solar panels i well need , i well call the link you posted an find out more , trying to learn what i can so i can used it my farm , how did you hook the power to your home tn , did you go into the breaker box with the power
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Re: Solar update: Adding another kilowatt
Thanks Andy,
I am not interested in selling anything back to the grid for several reasons but the primary one is the likelihood of the government using compiled data to tax you on your possible consumption somewhere along the way. Then again they will want to tax you for income if you sell any back to the grid. They have suggested this in wells and septics in this region but as far as I know they have only started putting meters on wells and have not yet started billing for consumption. We have even heard the drums beat about homeowner taxes being implemented if your home is paid for or will pro rate if you have a modest mortgage left. The way they put it was as such, "you own your home and pay no rent so we are wanting to call that money you are saving by not paying rent and call that income" This is insane I know but they have discussed it in a state where to this date we pay no state income tax. So I am am interested in getting "unplugged" I have lived without power before and a Solar system would be a great advantage in comparison. I see a guy that has a wind turbine some miles up the road and that things spins like a airplane. I know he must be getting some good juice from that thing. I see them in a smaller model on the boats but none of my friends have them. I think there is a green energy show coming to BC soon and I may try to get there. I can start trying to learn this but will no doubt have some questions for you along the way. |
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IF you have wind, by all means, GO THAT WAY.....it's cheaper per watt.....then add some solar for calm days. Best of all worlds. And I understand your desire to go off grid.
Yes, I've heard of the proposed tax on folks with paid off houses, calling it "income"....pure bullshit, for sure. They do that, and I'll go take out the maximum mortgage I can get, and buy gold. Or start myself a "church"....ahahahhaaa....the "Church of What's Happening Now" ( Pope Flip Wilson ) Mick: Yes, I went into the main breaker panel. BUT BE VERY CAREFUL HOW YOU DO THIS if you go this route. You can't use just any inverter....it MUST be a grid tie type inverter that cuts out from the grid when the grid goes down......otherwise, it will like hooking a generator to your house and back feeding the line. 120v steps UP at the transformer to 2300v ( what they use here on the high side....your may vary ) and WILL KILL A LINEMAN down the line if you do this..... So unless you are very sure of what you are doing, keep your solar completely separate from your house power panel. |
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i have no elec on my farm , i did not want none on it ... so when we get my new cabin i well be off the grid ,, but i well have a genertor for back up an yes i look up wind for power but in ky it not a good place for it ,, look it up on a wind chart but on my cabin there well be a breaker box out side for the gen an solar.. my dad a elec an my an him is wiring it all for low volt lights ,, i mean low waltage lights , trying to stay with low waltage every thing if i can ,,,, i have a cave with a spring coming out of it on one side on it it maybe a spring house before long
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That will work.....good way to go.
No, wind probably isn't an option for you......very few decent wind sites in the east, and most of them are on high ridges. |
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Re: Solar update: Adding another kilowatt
Yes.......the credit for 2009 is 30% with NO CAP....which is a HECK of a deal.....if you're paying taxes to amount to anything, Uncle Sugar is paying for 1/3 of your system !
That was another reason I added the 6 this year......4500 bucks worth of panels on sale for 3000. Previous years, it's been 20% with a 2,000 max in one year. |
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thanks tn andy i maybe picking your thoughts on some stuff on solar in the next few days , i should be getting my life insur money any day , then i can get on with my house , well it not a house per say . it a berm home the concert done , waiting on the plumbing now then then floor , it running me 24 k for all the labor an concert , when it done there well be 6 feet of dirt on the place , the whole front of the place well be glass.. the house well be 1350 sf not to bad , not sure if we are going to put wall up in it yet when it done i well post pic ,,, this is why i am tying to do this right the first time
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I thought we weren't supposed to post porno on here? Cause in my book that picture of solar panels is pure sexiness!!:bear_wub:
You subscribe to HomePower magazine Andy? I've been reading it for a couple years now, picking up some info and trying to retain it. Great technical diagrams accompany every article, which can be really helpful when trying to learn about Solar power. I'd like to start with a kilowatt or two of grid-tied PV, but have it set-up so I can easily(relatively) switch to a battery bank if/when SHTF. With the rebates being as good as they are I think I'll have to strike while the irons hot here pretty soon. How much would you say the trackers added to the overall cost of your PV system? |
Re: Solar update: Adding another kilowatt
Andy,
what are you using inverter wise.....has it performed as advertized? thx |
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Congratulations on your ongoing success with this project Andy.
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Just to clear that statement up a bit, its not that DC is worse than AC about voltage drop, its that the more current you run the larger wire you need as larger wire has lower resistance. The formula, I (amps)squared R (resistance) = W (watts) will show that as your amps increase for a given resistance your watts consumed will increase. For example 12 AWG copper wire has a resistance of 1.619 ohms per 1k feet. So if we're running 20 amps in 1k feet of 12 awg our numbers are 20 squared X 1.619 = 647.6 watts. Our 1k feet of wire (500 feet of cord out to our load and 500 feet of neutral conductor back to the power source) is consuming almost 650 watts of electrical power and turning it into heat through the length of the wire. If we're running 4 AWG copper wire it has a resistance of 0.2533 ohms per 1k feet. So, 20 squared X .2533 = 101.32 watts. With larger cable we're consuming fewer watts in the way of heat through the length of the wire causing less of a voltage drop at our load. Now, amps X volts = watts so 50 amps at 24 volts will give us the same power as 10 amps at 120 volts, but with the 120 volt circuit we can use smaller wire regardless of whether is ac or dc. The main reason AC is used for power distribution is that it can easily and economically be stepped up and down in voltage using transformers whereas with DC you can't use transformers and dropping and raising the voltage is expensive and not as efficient. I hope that explanation makes sense. Its late and I'm heading to bed. |
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You're a smart dude TnAndy, you fill in the blank... :puke: |
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"The main reason AC is used for power distribution is that it can easily and economically be stepped up and down in voltage using transformers whereas with DC you can't use transformers and dropping and raising the voltage is expensive and not as efficient. I hope that explanation makes sense. Its late and I'm heading to bed." We would all be operating off Tesla's direct current (DC) if it hadn't been for Westinghouse and his AC current which for the reason described above did make more sense for long range distribution. Still, Tesla wound up improving the reliability of Westinghouse's AC generators. As a side note : many of the old power tools will run off 120 volts AC or DC, those tools will last forever if taken care of. I have an old grinder and a drill that I run off my Lincoln A200 DC welder, one of the 3 greatest inventions of all time as the old timers will tell you......the other 2 are the caterpillar and the 9N ford tractor....hey I didn't make it up. The other thing they used to tell me was that the lathe is the mother of all tools.....no denying that one. |
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I'm reading into that you don't think much of the Kyocera cells ? I have no personal experience with them, but they seem to have a good reputation out there. What brand do you use now ? And what was the problems with the Kyocera ? |
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Are you setting a new stand or adding the new panels on the side of the existing panels?
What is a good source of windmills? End of questions for this post! Thanks! |
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No, I don't get Homepower, but it sure looks good. I probably have about 800/ea in my trackers.....control board 140ea, linear actuator 150ea, rest is steel, electrical unistrut the panels actually mount to ( but you'd need something like that anyway even for fixed mount ). I used one controller board for each tracker, but now I'm setting it up with some relays so one board controls both tracker motors. Armed Peasant: Adding on to the existing arrays....3 panels on each pole. I think it will handle it fine, and everything ( mount, wiring, combiner box ) is already set up so it's pretty much "plug and play". Bergey Wind in OK http://www.bergey.com/ Or Northern AZ Wind/Sun http://www.solar-electric.com/ But you don't have a wind site at your house....you know where my internet tower is, and that would be a minimum site. |
Re: Solar update: Adding another kilowatt
Fine thread Master Andy! Regarding payback, how much of the investment is returned to the home owner because it has solar power:questionm Or what % does it increase the value of a house:questionm
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Re: Solar update: Adding another kilowatt
Andy
How far could you run wiring from the windmill to battery bank? I may have a chance to put one on the ridge top where they are clear cutting now. Just a thought, since I do not get a lot of sun either. |
Re: Solar update: Adding another kilowatt
Payback would vary from State to State, even locally.
For example, I read somewhere Florida has announced they will give a tax credit of 4bucks/watt for solar. That is HUGE HUGE HUGE ( if true.....I have no source ). Add that to the Fed credit of 30% and you can almost put a system in for nothing. The payback comes every month then. But most places, you only get the Fed credit, so you have to take 30% off the system cost, figure how much it will produce ( save you ) and do the math to see what your payback period is.....you'll find it's way out there for most installs....like 12-15 years. I'm sure it does add some value to the house, though I have no idea what.....I never looked at mine in that regards...or payback either, really. I did it primarily so I will have some minimum electrical service if the grid goes down.....insurance before payback. |
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http://howto.altenergystore.com/Buye...-Turbines/a38/ Also, how to size wire: http://howto.altenergystore.com/Refe...ur-System/a62/ Basically, it's going to depend on the voltage the wind mill. But say you got a 48v DC model and it was 2,000 watts. That would put out about 42 amps running in a full wind. Say you have it on a 60' pole/tower and want to run another 200' from the base to the batteries....260' total....you'd need a 2/0 or 3/0 copper cable to stay within a 3% voltage drop. That's a pair of cables the size of the entry service to your house ! Probably 5-6 bucks/ft ( I haven't checked prices lately, but MUCHO DINERO no matter what ). And that's JUST 200' of run.....how far you looking ? 1/4 mile ? NOW, your other choice is you put the batteries in a shack right at the base of the tower.....now you get down from the windmill to the shack with a reasonable cable size.....and you mount the inverter there, and transmit 240v AC from there. Now you could run 900 feet with #6 cable ( 240v, 8.5amp, 2000watt ) You REALLY want to bury 900' of cable in your rocky ground ? |
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Low voltage requires HUGE copper wires example: For a 24 volt system I use 6 gauge wire on a 30 foot run from solar panels to charge controllers, and 2/0 ( that is two-ought, double zero) guage wire to connect batteries to inverters. 2/0 copper cable is 5 dollars per foot, and is just (barely) adequate for VERY short runs say 4 to 6 feet from inverter to battery bank. With a 240 volt system, you can push power from a windmill through 2 gauge ALUMINUM wire, which is comparatively cheep, and you should be able to go 800 feet without too much trouble. I strongly recommend that you consult with a genuine electrician and spend some quality time at the Library before buying any hardware. |
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Yeah....I've got also got about a 30' run from the panels to the charge controllers, and I used #2 ....that's way oversize, but I had a bunch of it already.....and now adding more panels, I don't have to go back and change it either.
I ran 2/0 welding cable from my batteries to the inverter....and they are also within 4'. One thing I've found about voltage drop calculators, like HERE is they tend to be pretty conservative. For example, I have a pair of #8 wires run to the top of the mountain to power the internet radios.....2200'. The voltage calculator says I should get a 27v drop on an 8amp load. Well, I plugged a side grinder in up there one day, and stuck a voltmeter in the other half of the receptacle just to see. It dropped to 104v as I first fired it up, put then came back to about 114 running under no load....then when I grind something, it would drop back to about 112v....which I don't think is low enough to harm the grinder. |
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You can't see it, but I'm green with envy :D
One question though, have you examined the economics vs. sitting on the grid and investment in solar equipment. Obviously if you want the capability to survive off-grid the cost may be something that doesn't bother you so much. |
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